The secret on Slovenia is out. This tiny European nation is gorgeously green, environmentally enlightened and heavenly for foodies. But beyond its buzzy little capital city, Ljubljana, and the iconic lake of Bled, Slovenia guards a hidden valley in its far north—Jezersko, home to the country’s newest alpine retreat, the rustic-chic Vila Planinka. 

Unveiled in late winter 2019, this wood-clad hideaway is a rare find and the perfect pick for an unplugged retreat. Guests are encouraged to leave their phones in a specially designed box at the reception—a leap outside most people’s comfort zone but with unexpectedly amazing outcomes. Vila Planinka is conceived for exploring the great outdoors and connecting with nature. Based on principles of sustainability, it draws the inspiration for its design and philosophy directly from its surroundings and blends in subtly and respectfully. 

Vila Planinka’s surroundings are so exquisitely pristine that, even as a visitor just passing through, you’ll want to keep them as they are. Encircled by snowcapped peaks of the Kamnik-Savinja Alps and the Karawanks range, the valley of Jezersko is delightfully remote and secluded. This tucked-away position, right on the border with Austria, has protected the area from development; you’ll find no commercial ski resorts here and no mass tourism. A health resort in the 19th century due to its crisp air, mineral-rich water springs and impressive biodiversity (the area is home to 1200 medicinal plants), Jezersko is coming alive again with the opening of Vila Planinka as a hotspot for outdoor and wellness pursuits.

Outdoor activities in Jezersko span all four seasons of the year. In wintertime, you can head out on cross-country skis to explore snow-blanketed mountain scenery, go snowshoeing in the snowy depths of the Alps or have a multifaceted family adventure that includes snow-tubing, sledging and ice-skating. For more high-octane thrills, take a guided ice climbing trip, go ski touring or tackle a strenuous trek to the nearby Ank waterfalls.

Come spring, sign up for a relaxing walk with a professional herbalist to learn about the area’s healing plants and how to prepare herbal infusions. You can visit a local cheese dairy and take in intricate handicrafts that feature wool of the area’s indigenous Jezersko-Solčava sheep. Vila Planinka also arranges starlit nature walks at night, year-round, an enchanting experience that includes gazing at star-strewn night skies, spectacular due to little light pollution. To immerse yourself in nature, book a half-day forest bathing adventure—walk on spruce needles, soak your feet in fresh spring water and do guided meditation under treetops.

While the lure of nature and the great outdoors in Jezersko is powerful, Vila Planinka is really good at tempting you to simply stay in and unwind. With their toned-down color scheme, featuring beiges, lime greens, whites and browns, the 23 cozy rooms inspire rest and recharge. The décor pays tribute to the valley’s natural and cultural heritage; you’ll find blonde wood, sheep skin throws, woolen rugs and ceiling lamps that hang on ropes. The cabin chic vibe, soothing and slow, makes you want to nap, daydream and tune out. 

To make leisurely stays in even more enticing, Vila Planinka has a spa. Small but mighty, with an infrared sauna and a Finnish bio sauna, it overlooks a small patch of forest clearing often frequented by deer. You can book a variety of massages, from a sports massage to soothe the muscles after a long hike to an anti-stress massage before you tuck in for the night. Unwinding becomes the state of mind after a little time spent at Vila Planinka, which has four energy points nearby. These natural sources of healing power were discovered by locals centuries ago; the closest one is right outside the hotel’s mountain larch deck. It is said that if you sit on one of these for about 20 minutes, you will feel soothing positive vibrations. 

Great energy comes from many sources at Vila Planinka, including the food. At its light-flooded restaurant with travertine stone floors recycled from a nearby quarry, the hyper-local cuisine is reason enough to trek out to this far north corner of Slovenia. The head chef Jakob Jerala brings a touch of global flair to the creative fare; he worked in Gambia for many years, trained with Heston Blumenthal in London and helmed restaurants in Sweden (hence the Scandinavian influences—think lots of raw, smoked, preserved and minimalist). All the ingredients are Slovenian and sourced from the area’s organic farms; the flavors reflect the super-short journey from farm to table.

The à la carte menu changes with the seasons; the daily menu showcasing the freshest handpicked bounty is where it shines. One day it may feature a starter of bear prosciutto with a quail egg and local cranberries; the next day, your entrée will be wild deer with juniper sprigs, pomegranate, Karst Teran wine and carrot soufflé. Every meal comes with the fluffiest creamiest butter, with salt from the Piran Bay, and artisanal breads made with local crops, like spelt, buckwheat and flax, that have grown in the area for centuries. The hotel bottles its own mineral water from a nearby spring, rich in healing manganese and ammonium. For a lovely boost to the system and a great start to the day, take a shot at breakfast. At the end of a long day alfresco, have a cup of Jezersko tea made from 42 handpicked herbs or the sommelier’s pick of premium Slovenian wines (Vila Planinka’s wine list is expertly curated). 

It’s a challenge to feel a sense of discovery in this hyper-connected world, yet Jezersko and Vila Planinka offer a glimpse of that. Here, in this secret valley of Slovenia that appears to be locked in time, off becomes the new on.