While Philadelphia’s steak sandwich monoculture is celebrated for its contribution to American eating, please accept my nomination of the Queen City of the Great Lakes, whose bonanza of beef-on-bread choices ought to be carved into the hearts, heads – and stomachs – of gastronomes everywhere.
Here’s the beef: WNY’s super steak sandwiches
That’s not even counting the beef on weck, which is sliced roast beef and therefore another species entirely.
From the strictly minimalist ethos of Kennedy’s Cove to the what-the-hell-did-I-just-eat wonder of Shy’s, here’s seven of my favorite places to steak my claim to satisfaction.
690 Fillmore Ave., 847-8177
There are steak sandwiches that you can eat while driving. Shy’s is not one of them. Pull over, or better, eat over a plate, sink or garbage can.
There is no way the torrent of beef, chopped into a fine lattice on the griddle, then loosened with two or three sauces cooked down into the meat with cheese to release their oils, is gonna stay where you put it. There will be a beefslide. The only question is if you will be prepared for it. Personally I prefer to unwrap my Shy’s (extra hot peppers, $11.25) over a plate of steaming white rice.
Now in its second location, a former bank, Shy’s distinctly sweet-tangy take on what a cheesesteak should be keeps me coming back.
8442 Niagara Falls Blvd., Niagara Falls, 283-3322
Steak-first fressers ought to enjoy the presentation in the finest steak sandwich in Niagara Falls. That’s actual tenderloin sizzled long enough to firm it up, but not dry it out.
Plus meaty mushrooms and caramelized onions, on a toasted roll.
For all of $10.69, this is a fine fistful of beef-based feeding, and my sentimental favorite.
1882 Seneca St., 822-2311
Seneca Street has no shortage of sandwich shops. What brings me back here again and again is the sheer consistency of the product.
An Artone’s comes flavored with expectations, after a half-century of experience as the steak king of South Buffalo. There’s been different owners, but the expectations are the same: top-notch hoagies.
Sullivan’s Charbroil
3590 E. Main St., Fredonia, 672-6225
Directed to Sullivan’s by alert readers, I was impressed by such a diverse menu coming out of a weather-hardened hot dog stand, but nothing wowed me as much as the ribeye sub. What a double handful of cow-centered cuisine, the steak still tinged pink despite fast-food speeds. At $10.25, a bargain worth a detour.
9800 Main St., Clarence, 759-8961
Or maybe you feel like stepping out. The classiest sandwich on this list costs $20. Five ounces of tenderloin grilled on some garlic toast to soak up the juice. When you put it in your mouth, you know where that money went.
247 Niagara St., 322-7179
A Colombian outfit has been knocking out arepas, stuffed griddled corn cakes, but don’t sleep on the sandwich de bistec of chopped beef laced with garlicky, cilantro-green chimichurri mayonnaise ($10.99). A spell in a sandwich press renders the exterior crackly crisp.
6261 Transit Road, East Amherst, 688-7625
The steak sandwich at Steve Calvaneso’s roadhouse ($17) leans toward luxe, with sliced sirloin steak on garlic-buttered Costanzo roll with provolone cheese and a pile of garlicky sauteed spinach, which technically makes it health food.
Who did I miss? Send your nomination – and a photo if you have it, to my email below.
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