FORT WORTH — For those who don’t take an abundance of selfies, Fort Worth may just change that. Quirky shops, hip hotels, eclectic neighborhoods and even some longhorns offer amazing backdrops for photos that are sure to get all the likes. I’m not the selfie type. I have my share but there are more interesting things to do than take pictures of — delicious-looking food, West Texas skies and pets. But Fort Worth almost dared me to dive into the world of selfie-dom.
This was not my expected first impression of Fort Worth, where I naturally think of cowboys, museums and a few live music shows I went to years back. The Fort Worth I thought about was still there, but it’s also grown into a trendy, cool spot that incessantly invites visitors — and perhaps even residents — to enjoy all it has to offer.
Downtown
The Worthington Renaissance downtown even gets in on the selfie game. Currently undergoing an $8 million remodel — including its lobby and some common areas — the hotel soon will have Toro Toro steakhouse by chef Richard Sandoval. The halls and rooms — designed with a modern minimalist flair that doesn’t skimp on comfort — pop with funky, colorful art.
The hotel is somewhat on the northern tip of downtown before the area hits the Trinity River and the stockyards, but it’s also within walking distance of almost everything downtown — particularly Sundance Square.
Mere blocks away, Sundance Square is a district of shops, restaurants, bars and the plaza centerpiece. By day, visitors walk through the plaza’s bricked grounds in the shadow of the large Chisholm Trail Mural. Artist Richard Haas completed the three-story-high mural in 1988. The large drama of the cattle drive is an easy choice for a photo opportunity. Visitors can escape the sun in a nearby open pavilion, a lush sitting area that is air conditioned and has plants and trees and a vaulted roof similar to traditional French garden structures. The space can be rented for special events.
Sundance Square by night is a different story. People crowd around tables and ledges to simply hang out. Couples chat over coffee, families take pictures and children (and some adults) splash in the perpetual fountain and light show. With its own security team, Sundance Square felt safe at all times — even after hours.
An evening night out started at the famed Reata Restaurant in Sundance Square, about a block away from the hotel. Reata is steeped in Western tradition with its luxurious wooden decor and distinct seating. But the restaurant’s reputation lies within its food. A meal of pan-seared pepper-crusted tenderloin delivered some hefty heat that was balanced by the sweetness of its accompanying port wine sauce. A side of sautéed asparagus was flavorful and crisp. For an indulgent finisher, the restaurant’s chocolate bread pudding tamale fit the bill. Wrapped in a husk, the pudding was rich with gooey chocolate and a crunch of pecans. Paired with vanilla ice cream — which also cooled off the tamale – the dessert is a match for any sweet tooth. Skip the selfie but snap photos of your plates for their simple but delectable plating.
Late-night options are abundant with bars and lounges. But Scat Jazz Lounge is an adventure all its own. Finding the hidden spot opened by area crooner Ricki Derek was a challenge. Tucked in a small alleyway, the place is accessed by an elevator that takes patrons underground to the basement of the historic Woolworth building. A classy staff greeted me. I paid the entry fee and opted for a seat at the bar rather than waiting for a table. The feeling overall was simply jazzy cool as the band delivered both chill vibes and some banger tunes.
When the band stepped off for a break, that was my cue to try a different location and vibe. Blocks away is Fort Worth’s newest speakeasy, Thompson’s Book Store, which assuredly is not a bookstore.
The space is a mishmash of old books and bookcases with disparate old furniture for seating that all works to create a decidedly snazzy aura. The menu offers a mix of both classic cocktails and house-made concoctions, sodas, drinking vinegars and infused liquors. Like Scat, Thompson has its own secret. A password is required to get to the secret basement bar that echoes the pharmacy theme from its previous resident. If you can do so without a flash, snap several shots to up your cool factor.
Shopping runs the gamut from Western fashions to trinkets and tchotchkes. Fun stops for more interesting fare is Earth Bones, a gift boutique with offbeat cards and novelties that can make for unique gifts. Nearby, the Houston Street Toy Company is an enjoyable spot for children and adults who want to be a kid again, even for a moment. The street-window Ferris wheel is a beauty.
For casual bites or sips, Vaquero Coffee is everything a trendy coffee shop should be, with rich wood decor and knickknack decorating tailor-made for your photos, but the craft coffee menu is equally impressive. FunkyTown Donuts is a gourmet doughnut shop where one can enjoy a Dreamsicle, hibiscus and lime or lemon-dark chocolate bite (among others) with a coffee or even a mimosa or beer.
On my last day, the Fort Worth Water Gardens was an easy stop on the way out. Designed by Phillip Johnson, the downtown attraction in the south end is an architectural concrete wonder. After walking in, the garden blooms into three pools of water hidden from street view. This oasis is counterbalanced by the meditation pool, the aerating pool and the main attraction: the active pool where visitors descend the terraces to touch the water and snap their own photos.
Cultural District
A big part of Fort Worth’s identity is its museums. The Kimbell Art Museum is an artistic experience inside and out. The Louis Kahn design is highlighted by the spectacular arches and houses a permanent collection that includes works by Michelangelo, Monet and Picasso. The museum recently closed its exhibition “Monet: The Late Years,” which was the first of its kind in 20 years. The Renzo Piano Pavilion, completed in 2013, is the museum’s latest addition to complement Kahn’s building. The natural-lighted concrete-and-glass building contains a gallery, education studios and a large auditorium.
The Modern, a neighbor of the Kimbell, has its own distinctive voice. Designed by Tadao Ando, the building, minimalist in nature, is comprised of glass and steel pavilions and a reflecting pond. The Modern’s mission is to present post-World War II art in all forms of media. Previous exhibitions have included “David Park: A Retrospective,” “New Works by Ron Mueck” and “Focus: Nina Chanel Abney.” Among its permanent collections are works by Jenny Holzer, Cy Twombly, Donald Judd and the marvelous “Ladder for Booker T. Washington” by Martin Puryear.
Both museums have cafes for some nosh while exploring art, but Righteous Foods, located nearby, can be worth the trip outside the museums. The clean-food eatery says it best on its website: Healthy food that tastes like it’s bad for you. So true.
The restaurant focuses on reputable and organic sources for its menu that offers breakfast, lunch and dinner and can be a perfect option for vegans and non-vegans to eat together. The avocado Eggs Benedict was crafted with turmeric-poached eggs and avocado over a sourdough English muffin and topped with piquillo Hollandaise sauce. The dish’s flavors unfolded with each bite but the hash of sweet potato and zucchini on the side was a little underwhelming for taste. The cochinita pibil pork tacos were zesty and spicy but without overkill. Made with Niman Ranch pork, chile poblano, pickled onions and queso fresco, the tacos melted into complex flavor mixtures with each bite.
The menu also boasts acai bowls for breakfast, hemp seed, mushroom and black bean burgers for lunch or dinner and an array of organic juices and cocktails.
Located on the west side of the Cultural District is the Foundry District, an area that specifically curates and supports small businesses. Also, get your camera out for Inspiration Alley, a mural project featuring large works by Texas artists. The murals look over a modest outdoor stage and picnic tables, and lead into an actual alley. Each mural is a dynamic piece of art; most are bursting with explosions of color for all the selfies. I may have even taken one myself.
The district houses some 40 small businesses that include Doc’s Records and Vintage, Power Fit Fitness Studio, Leonard’s Museum and Craftwork Coffee Co. There also are financial firms, commercial real estate agents and a distillery.
Southside
Southside’s Magnolia Avenue has hip restaurants and shops mixed into the area’s historic architecture and walkable sidewalks. Foodies can find delight with the self-proclaimed Restaurant Row that features farm-to-table cuisine along with a selection of breweries, wine shops and desserts.
A day on the Southside started at Brewed, which offers tempting breakfast and brunch items such as the bacon-banana Belgian waffle or the Twisted Texas Toast of battered ciabatta with bacon and ham barbecue, provolone cheese and two fried eggs. I selected the simpler fried egg sandwich made with bacon, tomatoes and arugula on toasted sourdough with sweet potato fries. Simple fare done well is crucial, and the sandwich was solidly done and filling. The joint could serve as a comfortable spot to meet friends for drinks or eats. Brewed has an expansive horseshoe bar that serves specialty coffees, cocktails, wines and beer flights.
Magnolia Avenue is very walker-friendly, so it was an easy decision to walk off some calories and head down the road to take in the sights and shops.
The Grow Plant shop was a joyous find. The 1978 Airstream Sovereign trailer gave a quirky ambience to the idea of a nursery. Greenery sitting outside attracted passersby. The trailer itself was filled with more plants and trees for sale. The selection itself was a mix of familiar plants and some slightly more unusual. Despite not having a green thumb, the charm here was irresistible and the owners approach the garden center idea with a curated eye and knowledge of their selections.
For a pick-me-up, Avoca Coffee has delicious coffee made from micro-roasted beans, but its baked goods were the surprise feature. A warm cinnamon roll was hard to pass up, while several customers opted for large slices of strawberry cake. The large artworks inside almost demand you to snap a shot with coffee in hand.
Down the street is a small ice cream shop called Melt, which is already Instagram-worthy with its yellow-and-white-striped building. The interior was similarly sunshiney, with the bright yellow motif that is its signature. The menu rotates new flavors but has a selection of Always Flavors, such as cookie crack, cup of Texas and velvet vegan. I opted for the non-dairy horchata made with coconut milk, which was a chilled, cinnamon relief to the summer heat. Because the shop is small, lines often extend outside.
For more adult-type refreshments, the Fort Worth Ale Trail can be taken in the South Main Village of Southside with stops at The Bearded Lady, a brew pub that offers 30 taps of a rotating selection of beer along with wine and spirits. The spot also offers between 10 p.m. and midnight a menu of late-night bites, such as Legit Grilled Cheese and the BYO Burger that come with either house-made kettle chips or fries. HopeFusion Ale Works is a craft brewery and taproom with a dog-friendly patio, board games, an overall punchy-fun environment of ’80s pop music blaring through speakers and a diverse crowd. The ale trail recognizes entrepreneurs who are helping to define the Fort Worth beer scene through local nanobreweries. Others on the trail include the Collective Brewing Project, Locust Cider and Funky Picnic Brewery and Café.
Twilite Lounge in Near Southside goes for a New Orleans ambience with live music, Saints-football watching and a surprising kitchen. The drink menu features an impressive collection of rotating North Texas beers along with crafted cocktails, including its famous frozen Irish coffee. But the inside Po Boy Shop is where it’s really at. The blackened-shrimp sandwich with shredded lettuce, tomato and pickles on French bread is simplicity at its most delicious. A big seller, according to the guy behind the counter, are the pickled fried green tomatoes with Twilite sauce. The lounge, open until 2 a.m., can be a nice way to finish the evening.
The Stockyards/Panther Island
Driving into the Fort Worth Stockyards National Historic District is quite literally traveling back in time. Turning onto Exchange Avenue is like being back in the Old West, with the historic buildings and cowboys and cowgirls walking amid tourists. That first sight was actually a bit jarring to see how untouched — or perhaps well-maintained — the area is, while also experiencing that western dusty feel. My visit happened to be on National Day of the American Cowboy, which meant that visitors and crowds were exponentially bigger, according to Dewayne Waldrup, Fort Worth Herd Operations supervisor.
For history buffs, Western fans and cowboy types, the stockyards is a must-visit. In one fell-swoop, visitors can see the Livestock Exchange Building for a historic look at the district, experience the Military Museum of Fort Worth and the Texas Cowboy Hall of Fame and then honkytonk it up at Billy Bob’s Texas or Neon Moon.
The highlight of a stockyards visit is the twice-daily cattle drive. Cowboys, or drovers, lead The Herd of longhorns down Exchange Avenue in the tradition of drives from the 19th century. It was thrilling to see these large animals mosey down the street with people just feet away. Big Mac, owned by a Midlander, recently joined The Herd.
After leaving the stockyards, I made the short drive to Panther Island Pavilion, a venue on the Trinity River. During my visit, Panther Island was hosting Rockin’ the River – guests could listen to a country music lineup while wading in the water or sitting on the makeshift beach. The pavilion is also the site for events such as Oktoberfest and the CXtopia Cyclocross Race Series.
Newly added is the Panther Island boat tour, a two-hour trip on the Trinity River on a 30-foot pontoon boat. Our guide delivered fun and interesting details about Fort Worth architecture and history from the perspective of the river and how it affected it or built around it. The special touch to this tour was moving from daylight into dusk and night offering spectacular views of the Fort Worth skyline, which made for one more amazing backdrop to the selfie collection.