A Bit of Australia in Every Watch – The New York Times

Advertisement

At Bausele, timepieces contain beach sand, red dirt from the outback, tile from the Sydney Opera House and more.

Image
Christophe Hoppé, the founder of Bausele, at Australia’s Bondi Beach. The company’s brand name was devised from the first letters of three words in the mission statement: “beyond Australian elements.”CreditCreditAnnaMaria Antoinette D’Addario for The New York Times

Australia has some of the world’s most celebrated attractions, from Bondi Beach to the Great Barrier Reef.

So in 2011, when Christophe Hoppé founded Bausele — marketed as the country’s first premium watch company — he decided to showcase such places. After all, what could be more distinctive than a timepiece with red earth from the outback in its crown, or a case made with Australian rock?

Even the brand name had a connection, devised from the first letters of three words in the mission statement: “beyond Australian elements.”

The idea was “to be different,” Mr. Hoppe, 44, said during an interview this summer in London. He was in Europe for meetings and to see a supplier who helped make Vintage 2.0, Bausele’s first IOS- and Android-connected watch, introduced on the company website Sept. 6.

The watch, priced at 750 Australian dollars ($507), and now available at 525 dollars for preorder, has a 1970s-style design with a 40-millimeter case and simple dial. It works with an app on the wearer’s phone to track your mood, how you sleep and your number of steps.

There also is a tiny kangaroo on the dial as “a bit of fun,” Mr. Hoppé said — as Australians “don’t take ourselves too seriously.”

With the debut of the new timepiece, Bausele now has seven collections, starting with the minimalist Noosa, a quartz men’s and women’s model named for Queensland’s fancy beach resort and priced from 495 dollars.

The surf-inspired OceanMoon, a men’s quartz model sold for 990 dollars, has tide and moon indicators and straps made of recycled Coca-Cola and other soft drink plastic bottles because “picking up the rubbish by the ocean, it’s what we do,” Mr. Hoppé said. (On this particular day he was wearing a black dial version with dark blue strap — “as I’m testing it,” he said.)

The Pilot Automatic and Terra Australis models, both for men, have automatic movements made by Soprod, in Les Reussilles, Switzerland. All the watches are assembled by a company in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, that Mr. Hoppé declined to name, for competitive reasons.

Bausele sold 1,250 watches in the 12 months ending June 30, he said, including a total of 450 made for an Australian army unit and for The Scots College, a boys’ private school in Sydney. Most of the others were sold online, but also through outlets like The Pen Boutique in Canberra and the Sydney Opera House’s shop, which sells a limited-edition model with a bit of crushed tile from the building in its crown.

Mr. Hoppé holds 51 percent of the business and has an array of investors, including 133 people who responded to a crowdfunding appeal last year.

Image
The Vintage 2.0, Bausele’s first IOS- and Android-connected watch.Credit

Bausele models “look different to other watches,” said Dana Reed, head of e-commerce at The Store, an online shop that showcases work by Australian artisans. “The colors are good. And you wouldn’t see them anywhere else.” It sells the Noosa and Terra Australis models alongside other Australian watches like Bare Bones’s square minimalist designs and the classic timepieces of Huckleberry & Company.

Mr. Hoppé, who was born in France, entered the watch industry through the business side, initially working as chief financial officer for the Geneva-based brand TechnoMarine and then as head of finances for the watch hand manufacturer Universo, part of the Swatch Group. When he moved to Sydney a few years ago for family reasons, he decided it was time to make his own watches.

He works on designs at home, in Sydney’s Northern Beaches area, while Arron Coote, a friend who became the company’s chief executive in February, is based in Los Angeles. A Sydney warehouse manages Australian distribution; international orders are handled in Hong Kong. “It is less expensive to distribute the watches from Hong Kong around the world,” Mr. Hoppé said, “because the logistics are more advanced and more organized and, in Australia, we are far away and isolated.”

A self-taught designer, Mr. Hoppé deliberately tries to disrupt watchmaking traditions. For example, rather than placing the crown at the usual 3 o’clock spot, Noosa watches have it at 4 o’clock — “to be comfortable,” he said. And he has focused on developing local materials, like Bauselite, a baked rock injected with nanoparticles, that he worked for almost two years with the Centre for NanoScale Science and Technology at Flinders University in Adelaide. It now is used for the Terra Australis watch cases.

The next quest? A locally made stainless steel case.

A well-known Australian actor — Dominic Purcell, a star of the Fox TV series “Prison Break” — is Bausele’s sole ambassador. And he does the job in a typically laid-back Aussie way, even wearing a watch in Instagram posts as well as while he is acting. That allows people to look “at the watch in a subconscious way,” he said. “It’s not me posing with the watch; the watch is in action with me.”

For example, he said, he wore an OceanMoon model while playing Mick Rory/Heat Wave in the fifth series of “DCs Legends of Tomorrow,” scheduled to air in the United States in January.

The OceanMoon Headland watch.Credit

Mr. Hoppé said he wanted to open Bausele’s first brand store at home — “If we had the money, we would have done it in Australia first” — but the investment interest of a Chinese businessman based in Singapore now has a team scouting for three locations in China.

Still, he does intend to open a store in Sydney in September 2020.

For all that Australia is a rich design inspiration, Mr. Hoppé said, growing a watch brand there can be difficult. “You are far away from the watchmaking industry. You are alone,” he said. “No one understands what you are doing and what you want to achieve.”

The country’s sales standing, however, is growing. Australia ranked only 18th among the 30 Swiss watch import markets in July statistics released by the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry, but it was among the handful of markets that showed double-digit increases year-over-year: 18.1 percent, in its case.

That growth came from prosperous Australians, but also Chinese residents and the high-spending tourists from China and other Asian countries, who, as the Panerai chief executive Jean-Marc Pontroué observed, “get a tax refund.”

Panerai, which has been selling in multibrand stores across Australia, opened its first brand boutique last year in Melbourne — and plans to open more as the company is one of the sponsors of the Luna Rossa sailing team, which will be training in Australia for the 2021 America’s Cup in New Zealand.

Also, Watches of Switzerland, which has four stores in the country, is expanding to Canberra in October, and Vacheron Constantin has chosen Melbourne as the site of its first monobrand boutique in the country, scheduled to open in November.

As for Bausele, Mr. Hoppé said he intended to follow the strategy he learned during his early days at TechnoMarine. “Everything was linked to something in marketing,” he said. “It was really strong around the water and ocean and stuck to that. I am sticking to Australia.”

A version of this article appears in print on , Section S, Page 4 in The New York Times International Edition. Order Reprints | Today’s Paper | Subscribe