Is there a more delicious evocation of summer than the lobster roll?

Texas has all manner of sea treats — Gulf oysters, redfish on the half shell, campechana and bounteous fried shrimp baskets — that carry us through the seasons. But the lobster roll, while not precisely in our seafood foodways, save for the steakhouse surf and turf, has traction in Houston. There are plenty of examples of the minimalist construction of lightly dressed lobster meat in a roll.

Summer’s most indulgent sandwich is also easy to make at home, providing a chic alternative to the backyard hot dogs/burgers/grilled chicken routine. Fourth of July weekend is the perfect opportunity to get to know the lobster roll.

For the uninitiated, the sandwich is simply lobster meat tucked in a toasted hot dog bun or roll. But there are two distinct schools that govern, and the allegiances are strong. The New England-born lobster roll is divided into two camps: the Maine and Connecticut styles. Having lived in Connecticut for 25 years, I can assure you there is hefty pride and regional loyalty where lobster rolls are concerned.

Recipe: New England Lobster Rolls

The Maine version consists of Maine lobster meat tossed with mayonnaise and maybe chopped celery and a bit of onion served cold. The Connecticut roll is fashioned from warm lobster meat dressed only in melted butter. Both are ideally served in a grilled, top-loading hot dog bun. Purists may argue that the Connecticut style accounts for a more direct, unadulterated lobster experience. Maine, though, tends to speak louder in terms of what many consider the quintessential lobster roll. Both are undeniably excellent.

When restaurateur Ken Bridge reopens his Millie’s Kitchen & Cocktails restaurant this weekend — it was temporarily closed after employees tested positive for COVID-19, and then to finish work on its patio — it will do so with a center-stage lobster roll. Millie’s is a coastal-style seafood shack concept, rare in these parts.

Bridge is very particularly about the building blocks of his roll. He uses steamed lobster that is finished in butter (only claw and knuckle meat), loaded in a brioche bun from Cake & Bacon grilled with garlic butter, sprinkled with a bit of fresh chives and served with a lemon wedge. Market priced, the Connecticut-style charmer is about $20.

“There’s no other comparison or experience than having a Connecticut-style lobster roll. To me, it’s heaven,” said Bridge whose Delicious Concepts Restaurant Group includes Ritual and Blackbird Izakaya. “I wouldn’t even think of reopening without that lobster roll.”

Recipe: Brown-Butter Lobster Roll

Jonathan Levine knows a good lobster roll. The chef/owner of Jonathan’s the Rub restaurants owned three restaurants on Cape Cod before moving to Houston. “If you can’t do a good lobster roll on the Cape, you might as well close the door,” he said.

Levine’s lobster salad follows the Maine tradition, made with tail, claw and knuckle meat (TCK, he calls it), dressed with Hellmann’s mayonnaise and a bit of celery. He sometimes presents it in a traditional, grilled bun, but prefers sliders with the cold lobster mixture in Hawaiian roll buns. He also presents a “Tex-ified” version of the lobster roll as lobster tacos on grilled corn tortillas topped with mango coleslaw, avocado mousse and a sprinkle of Aleppo pepper ($22 sliders or tacos).

“I was scared about diminishing the flavor of the lobster, but it really works,” Levine said.

One of the best examples of a classic New England lobster roll can be found at B.B. Lemon on Washington, a generous mound of mayo-dressed lobster meat in a grilled, split-top potato roll ($29). Owner Benjamin Berg said that he’s had several customers who asked for Connecticut style and the kitchen was happy to comply.

“It’s one of our bestsellers,” Berg said of his showy roll. “It’s New England comfort food. Indulgent comfort food.”

Recipe: Lobster Roll with Mayonnaise

Perhaps the priciest lobster roll in town can be found at Loch Bar seafood restaurant at River Oaks District. At $32, it’s a beaut that will undoubtedly delight the Connecticut-style purists. Loch Bar’s Maine lobster roll is bathed in Kerrygold butter swaddled in a toasted split-top bun and garnished with chives and celery leaf.

Hungry and don’t want to venture out? Then get cracking.

H-E-B stores sells live lobsters (stores will cook lobsters for free on request) and precooked and chilled whole fresh lobster at some locations. Priced starting at about $15 per pound, the average fresh lobster at H-E-B weighs about 1¼ to 1½ pounds, which will yield about 4 to 5 ounces of lobster meat, which is the average amount for a lobster roll.

According to Jason Driskill, director of seafood for H-E-B, lobsters are harvested in the Northeast United States, Nova Scotia and Canada waters. While the Canada season is winding down, lobsters from Maine will be readily available throughout July and August — peak lobster roll season.

greg.morago@chron.com